Charles Island - Ecuador

“It is not the strongest or the most intelligent who will survive but those who can best manage change.” 
― Charles Darwin

             I'll admit that I rewrote my previous post on Peru, three times. I had so many thoughts, that it was difficult to put it into one blog post. Galapagos post is simple. Go there. I haven't traveled as much as some of my friends, but I'm not sure there's another place in the world quite like it. You're basically island hopping through a zoo/aquarium, with no cages or tanks.

           Jess threw out the idea a few weeks back and I initially shot it down knowing how expensive it is. We ran into another American in Lima and he confirmed what Jess had found through research; A.) It's an amazing place that will only get more expensive/popular. B.) There are cheaper options than just hopping on a cruise, which is mostly what you come across when researching. At this point we're pretty experienced with the tour circuit and I really wasn't looking forward to getting stuck on a boat with a bunch of tourists. People on vacation our a lot different from backpackers like ourselves. However, Jess assured me we could just do day tours, which would give us more flexibility and save us money.

          After spending a few nights in the border town of Mancora, Peru and relaxing on the beach we headed for Guayaquil, Ecuador. While at the border crossing we made friends with others crossing the border. One couple being from Sweden and the other, the U.K. We were all heading the same route and it was refreshing to share notes with people who had a similar journey behind them and ahead. The U.K. couple had actually started their journey back in January a day after us and followed an almost identical route.

View from our room at Semilla Verde.

         We spent two more nights in Guayaquil before taking off on the 13th. We landed in Baltra at an airport that was originally set up by the U.S. back during World War II. Since then, it has been the main airport for visiting tourists. Rather than stay in the popular Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island we chose to stay up in the highlands on a coffee plantation owned by a Brit called Semilla Verde. Although it was out of our normal $30/night per person budget, I wanted to stay somewhere nice for a few nights to wake up to peace and quiet. SV didn't disappoint. Every morning we woke up to birds chirping and ocean views. The breakfast was amazing and our friends we met from the U.K. joined us for two nights.

         Our first day we scoured the town of Puerto Ayora for tours. Jess had brought up scuba diving several times during our trip, but I really never gave it too much thought. Galapagos offers world class diving, and we decided to go with one of the more reputable diving companies in Scuba Iguana. It was my first time scuba diving and Jess' third, but it had been a few years for her. I know it can be a bit dangerous, but I didn't want to give it too much thought and psych myself out, like I did with skydiving a few years back.

        When our dive rolled around Saturday morning I was excited to get in the crystal clear water near North Seymour. I kept trying to block out the chatter of sharks and just focused on my gear being ready to go. Jess seemed calm as well until we hit the water. Thankfully we had a personal scuba guide who helped us every step of the way. That couldn't prevent me from nearly hyper ventilating and Jess accidentally filling up her mask with water within the first 10 minutes, which felt like an hour.

        Once I finally was able to slow my breathing we began to descend into crystal clear ocean waters with fish straight out of Finding Nemo. After a few minutes we reached the floor and let nature put on a show for about 20 minutes. I was still struggling to breath a bit, but didn't want to waste any time at the surface. At this point we were about 30-40 feet below surface and we began seeing White Tip Reef Sharks. Like most Americans who grew up on the coast, I've always been fascinated/terrified of sharks. Shark Week in my house as a kid was like the World Series, Super Bowl and NBA Championship all rolled into one.

       Seeing the first shark didn't even feel real because I was still struggling to breath. I was also trying to keep an eye on Jess and our guide. There was so much going on at once. Every direction you turned there was something new to see. We were experiencing the way things were meant to be. It was liberating. When the 12 foot Manta Ray cruised by us about 20 feet away, I felt a euphoria over my body. A few minutes later a group of hammerheads swam by as well. You could tell they saw us, but didn't care to bother with us.

        If our trip ended after that first dive, I would have been completely content. Our second dive we traveled about 30 minute to another dive spot called Daphne. We were able to see a cave filled with resting White Tip Sharks and playfully circled by a Sea Lion. We had survived our dives, but our Galapagos Adventure wasn't over yet.

       On Monday we headed over to Isabella Island by a 2 hour boat ride. I wasn't feeling so hot after swallowing some water during my initial dive. By the time we got to the island I was pretty wiped out from the 90-100 degree heat and rough boat transfer. We were also greeted with the fact that the island didn't have ATMs or a bank. Our funds were low, but we enjoyed two nights on this quiet island and did a snorkeling tour off the coast with our friends Ben and Robyn.

      Spending a week in a place so rich in wildlife is something I'll never forget. Jess is definitely the bigger animal lover out of the both of us, but this is a place for everyone. You can't help, but be impressed with how these islands have managed to stay so clean and operate so smoothly with locals, wildlife and tourists. We have obviously seen a lot over two months, but this has definitely been the highlight of our trip....so far.

      We then flew to Quito with zero plans and decided to do a tour around Cotopaxi National Park for two days. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't on our side and we weren't able to fully view Cotopaxi Volcano.
We realized that day how fortunate we've been over the past two months in terms of weather. We also realized how diverse Ecuador is. One day we're diving with sharks and sea lions, a few days later we're climbing snow capped volcanoes....not a bad place to visit.
     
      Tomorrow we'll head to Bogota for the last stop of our adventure. We'll then head to the Coffee Triangle and work our way up to Medellin. From there we'll head to the coastal towns of Cartagena and Santa Marta, stopping at some beach towns along the way. Recommendations are always welcomed.

       Thanks for keeping in touch and we'll keep you posted on our Colombia Adventures!

Speak Softly and Carry a Big Stick

Hola from Peru

         Before arriving in Peru, I began reading "Conquest of the Incas". I wondered, "How would I feel if someone of a different color, on strange animals showed up in America and murdered our leaders, then forced me to worship a new god?". As someone who doesn't associate with a religion and considers the wilderness his church, it was a bit frustrating to see all the churchs the Spaniards had built, but they're not the first to do this (see: Missions in California). When we began taking tours around/outside Cusco, you begin to realize what an impressive civilization the Incas were. As time went on and we began the Inca Trail hike to Machu Picchu, I began to accept that Conquests are just part of civilization.

          The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is a 4 day, 26 mile backpack with the option to have porters carry all your stuff. Tour companies (we joined the Llama Path based on friends recommendations) provide tents, food and guides, who fill you with the history of the trail. Having hiked Patagonia a few months ago, I was confident we wouldn't have a problem. Now that we completed both I'll say Inca Trail is much more difficult than the hike we did in El Chalten, Argentina. Like most challenging hikes, the payoff was big. Amazing views with differing climates/flora and 500+ year old ruins. Hard to beat and there's no wonder Machu Picchu was voted New 7 Wonders of the World.

          Having done a few tours over the last few months, I'll say this is one of the best groups we got stuck with. There were 9 of us, 2 tour guides and 14 porters. Out of the 9 tourists, 2 were from New England, 1 from New York, 1 from Spain, 1 from Italy and 1 from England. A great mix and all within the same age range. Spending 4 days in close quarters isn't easy for anyone and I was impressed with how the group got along. The porters are/were work horses and carried supplies, including the impressive meals we ate for breakfast/lunch/dinner.

You don't have to be female to die at Dead Woman's Pass

         The hike follows a path designed for the Royal Pilgrimage to Machu Picchu where studying was done only by the highest ranking of the regional tribes. On your way you climb up to 14,000 feet at Dead Woman's Pass. From there you sleep next to an impressive Inca Ruin that was enough for me to go home satisfied.
     
       After two days of perfect weather it finally started to rain. Luckily we were done hiking around 1 and our guide instructed us to take a nap and hopefully the rain would pass. Around 5 he came over to our tent asking if we'd like to do a short walk to another ruin. At first we declined, but upon hearing the rest of our group get up we did the same.

       The 9 of us plus our guide trudged through the rain and mud about a 1/4 mile to another impressive ruin. He gave us some information on the site and left us to explore on our own. After some discussions with three llamas we were able to explore the ruin. While doing so(about 15 minutes in) we heard two girls in our group
yelling, who were still high up on the terrace. When we ran over we found an Andean Bear slowing making their way across one of the terraces towards the 3 perched up Llamas.

      Once we returned to our camp all glowing from what we had just seen, we realized how rare it is to see a bear by our guides reaction. Before we saw the bear, I would've said this was the highlight of the trip because we had this perfectly intact ruin all to ourselves(thanks Rain Gods). The bear was just the icing on the cake.

       The following morning we woke up at 2:50AM(not a misprint) and got to the front of the line for the last push. At this point, everyone on the trail meets at the final check point and hikes about an hour to Machu
Picchu. We waited restlessly til 5:30 and raced to Sun Gate to get the first glimpse of Machu Picchu. This last stretch is the longest finish line I've ever experienced. Finally you can stop thinking about how many more miles/gross bathrooms/stairs/stubbed toes/knee issues you have to go and can appreciate what you've come to see.

       There are some of us who have done more difficult and longer treks, but nothing as rewarding as the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. Some people we met just took the train straight to Machu Picchu, but if you want to fully appreciate the history of the Incas, I'd highly recommend sacrificing your knees for 4 days and hiking the Inca Trail.

       On our final night in Cusco we had the pleasure of grabbing drinks with one of our Spanish teachers who is originally from Cusco and picking his brain about the current state of Peru. During our stay in Cusco we experienced transportation protests stemming from a gas line and international airport. Without going into great detail, while Peru provides natural gas (through a pipe) to Chile and Mexico at a discounted price, Cusco relies on gas tanks that you find under your BBQ grill at a Premium. As for the airport, the majority of Peru's international tourism heads to Cusco. However, you need to fly into Lima in order to get to Cusco. Add an International Airport to Cusco and that takes Lima out of the equation.

        Peru has issues like any country, but you can see a lot of potential as this great country continues to grow in popularity. The smog in Cusco is the worst I've ever experienced in some areas, but this problem can be fixed by eliminating buses in some of the tighter streets. Inca Trail has only been accessible by tourists the last 30 years and will only continue to experience growth. Hopefully Peru will recognize how important it is to limit the number of people on the trail, rather than trying to squeeze every penny they can out of the trail. I would suggest increasing fees to enter the trail and limiting number of hikers/porters on the trail daily.

        After a quick stop in Lima we headed North to Mancora, a nice 22 hour bus ride. This is a chill beach town we've heard great things about. After being over 11,000 feet elevation the past few weeks, it's nice to be back at sea level again and on a beach. From here we'll head to Galapagos Island for a week starting on March 13th. From there we'll fly to Quito, Ecuador and make our way up to Cartagena in Colombia.

         We're still open to suggestions North of here, so if anyone has any info to share, please do. Also, here's a link to some more photos on Photo Stream: PERU

         As always, thanks for all the encouragement and support!

From the Salt Ponds

Billy the Alpaca Tamer

Cooking/Spanish Class w/Judy

Protests in Cusco

Ruins in Ollantaytambo

Jammin on the 16 string

The More You Know. The Less You Need.

Cheers to Iced Coffee! Not easy to find around these parts.

After having such a great time in Valpo, we were due for a hangover. We got lazy in terms of learning Spanish and also got a little too comfortable staying in one hostel for an extended period of time. Traveling is exhausting and with the distances we've covered over the last few weeks, we've really had to work for it.

              Our first night, post Valpo was at La Casa Roja in Santiago. Having avoided party hostels until this point, it was good to see first hand what Travel Partying was all about. Lucky for me, it was a Sunday and things were rather tame, but you could see the potential for shenanigans was there. Those who know me, know I still have enough left in the tank to party. However, attempting to communicate/travel with even the slightest hangover is an absolute nightmare.

Showing our enthusiasm for the sites.

             There are many ways to travel and meet new people. La Casa Roja, as well as some of the other party hostels offer a party atmosphere that I'd highly recommend if you're young and single. I'm neither.....maybe young, but not single. Billy actually made some friends at the hostel, who he later went exploring with. That's one of the benefits of staying at these types of hostels, meeting outgoing/social people.

           Another approach, which we've taken is staying at low key and sometimes more expensive hostels and making friends while in Airports or Bus Stations, or even on Tours. One of the highlights of this trip for Jess and I have been the amazing people we've met along the way. It's not easy leaving your comfortable life at home, for roughing it in a foreign country. You immediately have that bond/connection when you cross paths with someone exploring a foreign land like yourself. They're also a great source of information and the reason I decided to ditch my Lonely Planet travel book a few weeks back.

Walking Tour MVP - William Keller

          One place which was recommended by several travelers we met was the Museum of Memory and Human Rights in Santiago. This turned out to be the highlight of our stay there and left me with a strange feeling of guilt. Although the US wasn't specifically mentioned in the atrocities that took place in Chile in the 1970s and 80s, I'm aware of the role our government played. When you travel to different countries and introduce yourself as a traveler from America, you will inevitably be judged. Typically the reception has been warm. However, I often wonder how educated these individuals are in their countries history and how the U.S. might have played a role. A role that often isn't very appealing, depending on your political views or family wealth.

One of the nicer stretches on the 30hr bus ride.

           Between Santiago's heat, my Valpo hangover and my quickly diminishing funds, we decided after three days in Santiago to head North to the coastal town of Arica. Unfortunately, this would require taking a 30 hour bus ride and splitting off from Billy for a few weeks(He left Team Party Poopers for Team Travel Babes). The payoff being a short 20 minute bus ride to the Peruvian border and posting up for a day on the beach. I've stressed this whole trip how I didn't want to rush anywhere, but after comparing what we were spending in Chile to Peru, we had to get to Peru as quickly as possible. Chile is a beautiful place with a strong economy thanks in part to their copper reserve that helped them during the economic collapse. However, this doesn't bode well for someone looking to travel for several months and looking to get the most out of their money.

Towards the end of our 30 hour bus ride.

            Before our bus to Arica, we hadn't taken anything longer than a 7 hour bus ride. Anyone who has known me for 5 minutes, knows I can't sit still. However, we knew at some point we would be taking a long bus and flying was out of our budget. I booked the bus the day before and made two mistakes when doing so. A.) our seats were next to the bathroom. B.) we would be arriving at night. Luckily on this long bus ride my body/brain shut down. Yes, I read and wrote a bit, but for the most part I slept. Maybe it was the stench behind us or the cake Jess got us for Valentine's Day. Either way, we survived what is mostly a drive through Chile's Northern desert and coastal roads.

          When we arrived in Arica's bus station my brain was still a jello mold. The little Spanish I knew wasn't coming out of my mouth and I was quickly brushed away when trying to arrange a taxi to take us to our hostel. I'm not sure if it was the look of desperation or the fact that I was standing next to Jess, but for some unknown reason a Chilean or maybe Peruvian traveler approached us. "You only speak English?", he said. I mumbled something resembling "yes" and "muy poco espanol". Through that mumbling he called the cab he had already arranged and asked the cab to drop us off on the way to their hotel. When I attempted to engage him in both Spanish and English he couldn't understand me. What could have been a very poor ending to a bizarro 30+ hours, turned out to be a helluva ending to our stay in Chile (with the guy even paying for our cab).

            We spent our last day on the beach and in gringo fashion, awarded ourselves with a South American Sunburn. The next day we headed only 20-30 minutes North to the Peruvian border and began another adventure. Unlike Chile and Argentina, there isn't much English spoke in Peru. However, the culture is very rich and you can see Spains influence dating back to the Conquest of the Incas, especially in the Southern region, where we'll be staying. We arrived in the Peruvian border town of Tacna with the help of our French friends and hopped on a 6 hour bus ride to Arequipa. My initial reaction when we arrived at night was that this city looked a lot like Baghdad, but soon the cab took us through the cities historic center and my nerves were instantly calmed.

This kid rapped on our bus before we crossed the border. No clue what he said, but I'm pretty sure everyone tipped him. Including me. "Big Ups"

Plaza in front of our Hostel in Arequipa

           Tuesday, February 18th we will take a 10 hour bus to Cusco, the former Inca capital. We will take a survival Spanish class our Aussie friends recommended and hike the Inca Trail on March 1st with Uncle Billy through Llamapath.

           Sorry for the lengthy update, but hopefully this info will be helpful in your future travels.

     

Amazing bar at Paladar 1900 in Arequipa

Buenos Carne

Quick update from BA:

       Our first few days here in Buenos Aires have been amazing. I've never been to a city with such diverse architecture.  This alone has kept my brain occupied and stimulated. There are times when I'm walking down the street and feel like I'm in Mission District SF, New Orleans, East Village NYC and Paris.....all on one block.

Impressive statues everywhere you turn that reminds me of Paris.

Elaborate murals similar to the art in Mission SF.

Streets filled with both old and new architecture. 

      Having spent the past four plus years in SF it's hard not to love food at a high level. BA doesn't disappoint in this department and we were fortunate enough to take a cooking class and partake in an Asado (BBQ) with some new friends. 

       While working in NYC I fell in love with empanadas. However, since living in SF I haven't eaten them. We signed up for a cooking class last minute and made carne empanadas, cookies and lentil stew with corizo and bacon. When I asked about breakfast empanadas our teacher gave me a strange look(more on this later). That didn't stop us from making them back at our apartment a few days later. 

Cooking with Norma (Argentine Cooking Class). 

Our breakfast creation with avacado on top. 

       Through some networking (thanks Coop!) we were able to meet up with another American couple (www.twainheart.wordpress.com) who had us over for dinner on Friday night, Sunday showed us around San Telmo market and later took us to a friends for Asado. This was definitely the highlight of BA for me. 

The famous San Telmo Market. Since 1897. 

No vegans here. 

         I should also mention how everyone has their own perception of people and places. The Argentine people are very proud of where they're from, much like the French and for good reason. Before I went to Paris in 2008 I was warned of rude encounters I might face, but found quite the opposite. Buenos Aires has been a similar experience. We were told most the people here speak some English, but haven't had many people try to communicate with us that way. 

      This has been a humbling experience and lesson in respecting others culture. I regret not being more prepared by practicing my Spanish, but it's more motivation to learn while down here. 

      Many people warned us of San Telmo pick pocketing and being robbed in the street. However, this city feels very safe and we've walked miles through several neighborhoods. That being said, we'll continue to keep our guard up for where there is desperation, there is crime. 

Also, here is our itinerary if you know anyone in these areas, please let us know: 

Buenos Aires Jan. 9-15th
Patagonia Jan. 15-28th
Puerto Montt Jan. 28th
Valparaiso Jan. 30 - Feb 5th
Santiago Feb 5th - 10th
Northern Chile to Lima Peru Feb. 10th - 20th
Lima Feb. 20-25th
Cusco/Machu Picchu Feb 25th - Mar. 6th
Lima Mar. 6th

Ecuador/Colombia/Panama/Costa Rica/Nicaragua (After March 8th - No Concrete Plans)

Valpo

After a quick, 3 day stop in the sleepy Puerto Montt(which included a day trip to see Penguins in Chiloe), we headed to Valparaiso to meet Jess' Aunt and cousin who live in Texas. I'll confess that I didn't really put much research into this part of our trip because Patagonia was the main focus of my trip.

From our hostel bedroom.

          What was intended to be a 4 night stay in Valparaiso at Luna Sonrisa Hostel, turned into a relaxing 10 nights We immediately fell in the love with the vibe/art/food/culture that reminded me a lot of San Francisco. Turns out they have been connected in history since the Americas began exporting. Before the Panama Canal, Valparaiso was a stopping Port before wrapping around the tip of South America. They also experienced devastating earthquakes in 1906 and again in the 80s, like San Francisco. With impressive wine country to the South in Casablanca and beaches that resemble Southern Cal in Vina Del Mar, this city has it all.

Some Valpo street art.

          Jess' family kept us busy the first four days, which lead us to stay another week so we could explore with Billy, who arrived on the 6th. The long stay was much needed because all the hostel hopping we did in Patagonia definitely paid a toll on our bodies and it was nice to stay in one place. Another benefit of staying at the hostel was the staff, which is made up of Americans. One who is friends with Jess' cousin. Originally from Massachusetts, she fell in love with the city when studying abroad several years back. Having someone to show you around is clearly the best way to explore a new city and Julia was excited to show us everything the area had to offer.

          Now that we're a month into our journey, we're a bit more comfortable on the road and getting around. That being said, there's still a little anxiety when you get on a bus/plane/taxi, having no idea about where you're headed. Once you get to your destination, that all fades and you start to conquer another unknown. While climbing on rocks at the beach I kept thinking of Yvon Chouinard and how he says, "Conquerors of the Useless". It's not to take away from what we're accomplishing here, but it's a reminder that it's all been done before. As humans we're prone to Fear of the Unknown, but there's no greater feeling or high than conquering that fear. 

          

Team Mascot - Isa

Beach in Quintay - South of Valpo

Wine Tasting in Casablanca.

Taken in Julia's backyard.

 

Beach just a short bus ride away in Vina Del Mar.

Wine Tasting with Babies.

The Fam.

One more stop at Fauna.

Looking for ride back from the beach.

Hitching our own Hitch back to Valpo.

Son of a bee sting!

Patagucci - Arhentina

Patagonia. She didn't disappoint. Since leaving Buenos Aires on January 15th for El Calafate we've been traveling around the Argentine side of Patagonia for almost two weeks. What a place. I booked this trip specifically looking for an adventure in Patagonia and I've left yearning for more. We could've spent another two months down there, but we must keep ramblin on. 

     We started in El Calafate, where the Argentine President is from and has built up the past ten years. There's not much to do there, but it's a great spot to post up before heading to other backpacker towns/parks. From there we went and saw our first glacier. I wasn't overly excited for something any tourist could go see, but I walked away impressed by the size of these things. When we first got on the trail with a mix of Aussies and Europeans I heard a huge crack that sounded like thunder overhead. Quickly I realized it was actually the glacier breaking off. Unlike most glaciers in the world, Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the healthiest in the world and continues to put on a show every Summer for tourists. 

 From the boat.  

     After a few days we headed to El Chalten, which brought tears to my eyes when I first saw Fitz Roy. For years I had pictured coming here and after four years of goal setting, budgeting, visualizing, it was reality. It's funny how you see an image so many times and when you finally see it with your own eyes you don't know how to react. I felt waves of adrenaline rushing through my body like that scene in Trainspotting when he shoots up heroin. It's a euphoric feeling no doubt. 

     The park ranger notified us that the mountain typically isn't visible and that we caught it on a perfect day. So we dropped off our stuff at the hostel and raced up the trail with day packs. Later we would hear stories of visitors staying in El Chalten for over a week and not seeing Fitz Roy. 

      Anyone who has hiked with me knows I like to race to my destination and you can imagine the speed I was going racing up to the best view possible. I was impressed with how Jess kept up and once we threw on our full packs, (a few days later) she continued to hold pace. We chose a less popular camp spot because the tour companies dominated the main campsite and I didn't want someone's tent 4 feet from ours. 

      We hiked in about 7 miles and set up about 1/2 mile from Grande Glacier on Lagoon Torre. Once again I was amazed by the glacier and how small it made me feel. It got cold at night but never rained too hard. It did snow a bit the second day, but it only made the experience that much better. Mission Complete: I had finally backpacked El Chalten and saw Fitz Roy. 

The campsite. 

Grande Glacier at Lagoon Torre. 

   El Chalten is a unique town in that you're in the National Park and just walk straight down Main Street to access the trailhead. No other national park that I've been to has that. Also, it's light out until 10pm so you have backpackers coming and going all day long. The trails are very well marked and the town is set up perfectly for adventure seekers like myself. 

      North of here is where things get a little difficult to navigate and as a result we backtracked to El Calafate in order to fly to Bariloche. I was planning on heading 12 hours (by bus) north and crossing over to Chile in Chile Chico, but it involved too much bus/ferry hopping. I came to realize after months of research and weeks of asking around why its so difficult to navigate Patagonia. Of course Patagonia is very vast, but also it's a land shared by Argentina and Chile. As our friend, Rami at Schilling Hostel in El Calafate explained "we don't hate each other but we don't like each other either". 

      Anytime I asked someone how to make it across the border near Chile Chico I was reaching the same conclusion. Nobody cared to promote getting me to Chile. So based off Rami's advice we flew to Bariloche(Tahoe of Argentina). Again, I wasn't too excited to be surrounded by tourists in this popular destination, but was blown away by its beauty. As soon as we got into town I actually left my iPhone in the airport taxi and Jessica at Hotel Flamingo tracked it down for me. For about 30 minutes I started planning how I would navigate this trip without my iPhone....wouldn't be easy. 

The view just North of Bariloche. 

      After two nights in Bariloche I booked a hostel in El Bolson on HostelWorld. Keep in mind most of these towns have awful internet compared to US standards. Lots of times I'm rushed and booking at a cafe before we're hopping on a bus or flight. I didn't research and just assumed it was near the center of town. After a two hour bus ride I realized the hostel was outside of town and we would need to hike a bit on foot. After another 40 minute bus ride down a rock road we got off in Wharton. I felt like I had warped back in time to the 60s was about to partake in an acid test. There were signs for Refugios all over but I still had no idea what I signed us up for. We just needed a bed and a shower for two nights. By the looks of the 30-40 backpackers, there were no showers nearby. 

      After one of the steepest 45 minute hikes I've done we ended up at an oasis in the wilderness. La Confluencia Farm/lodge/hostel is owned by an Amercan who bought the land and turned it into a model of sustainability. Google it for more info and if you're considering an adventure, put this on your destination list. 

      Once inside I panicked and thought I misread the $1000 as USD and not Pesos($1usd is $10arg peso on black market). You could only pay with cash so this would've been a big issue. Turned out it was pesos and we had just enough cash for the two night stay and dinner. The chef, Gina had gone to culinary school in Buenos Aires and had the luxury of using fruits/vegetables/herbs right out of the garden. All the meat was local and often attained through trade. The place was powered through a water turbine and located next to the river and trails.

     At breakfast we sat with a newly wed couple from Toronto and the four of us hiked to a look out of the property and later beers and meats by the river. Although I loves Fitz Roy, this was the highlight of our trip so far. Another couple from Calgary joined us and the six of us drank and laughed into the night. 

Finding our Hostel in the woods. 

That's what it's all aboot. 

Rio Azul

View from the "beach"

Team Canada

Team Norte American

       If this wasn't a lesson in just go with the flow. I don't know what is. The following day we traveled from 7am til 10pm, only to find our hostel in chile hadnt been confirmed because the internet was down. Luckily he found us a hostel and we're now back where we intended to be in Tren del Sur, located in Puerto Montt, Chile. 

       After a few days we'll be heading to Valparaiso to meet Jess' aunt and then meet up with Billy in Santiago on February 6th. 

       If anyone has an iPhone or email and wants to see most our photos just shoot me an email(langan15 at gmail) or Facebook message me. 

       Hope all is well back in the States and thanks again for all the support.